Sunday, January 1, 2012

Why do kayaks have such a high kg rating when even when fully loaded you will never reach it?

also i have heard the higher the kg rating the less stable they are because there not sitting in the water properly and also this causes them not to track good,have you heard this? also which is a better brand for a fishing kayak hobie,viking,feel free or ocean kayaks and why? thanks|||Hi Matthew,





I can help you with the first part of your question, not so much on the fishing part:





Keep in mind that paddlers come in all shapes and sizes. There was a time when almost all kayaks were built for small people. That's simply not the case any longer, and boat designers do engineer high capacity boats with as much skill and craftsmanship as the smaller capacity hulls.





Kayak manufacturers don't expect you to load the kayak to it's maximum weight listing. They are simply stating the specs that their boat is built to withstand. It's a liability weight rating, and these listings are normally lower than the boat's true maximum capacity. Boat makers will typically will cite their optimal paddler weight range, and the total boat load range (so that a paddler can take into account the weight of their camping /expedition gear loaded into the hatches).





Boats with higher weight limits are MADE to be paddled with more weight in them. Boats for heavier loads are designed for optimal performance within a target load range - so that the boat rides in the water at a specific point, based on the weight of the paddler.





Because of this, a small paddler in a very high capacity boat will definitely feel tippy, and could very well experience tracking issues, because less of the hull is in the water. Think about it - a boat with a long water line and little rocker tracks well without a rudder.





Imagine a kayak that's built for a 225# (about 100kg) person: it is designed for optimal performance with that weight. If you replace that paddler with someone who is only 125# (around 65 kg), the boat will ride higher in the water, less boat under the surface = shorter waterline and more rocker above the water. It will track horribly. What's worse is that much more of the boat will be exposed to the wind, and you'll also have terrible weathercocking.





I paddle a sea kayak with a high capacity - I use it for camping trips in which I load it with tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, stove, food, water, etc. for several days at a time. When I paddle that boat when it's empty, I do find that the boat handles much more lively, and in wind I find myself using the rudder more frequently.





Keep in mind that there are many kayak hulls for many purposes, people, and many price ranges. The key is to find the right fit for YOU.





Also, take boat "reviews" of kayaks / canoes with a grain of salt - if a 120# person gave a poor rating of a high volume boat, are you relly getting a relevant opinion of the boat? I'd rather hear the 120# paddler talk about the performance of a boat that was designed for their size. Makes a bunch more sense.|||Rated buoyancy determines the load a kayak can float or support. Kayaks are often rated by paddlers weight. Kayaks used for racing are built to support a particular paddler! Touring kayaks have greater capacity/buoyancy which is used to float touring gear and supplies as well as the paddler. A whitewater slalom kayak is easy to turn but does not track. A sea kayak is difficult to turn but tracks easily. Today we have kayaks that actually allow negative buoyancy or almost. Boaters play while submerged! Fishing requires a stable platform, compare it with a downriver whitewater racing boat....or a flatwater racing model.

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